Wednesday, January 25, 2006

 

MOTOR SPECIALS

Blower motors

1/4 HP 220v____82.17____63984
1/3 HP 220v____84.02____63986
1/2 HP 220v____103.00____63988
1/4 HP 115v____80.00____63983
1/3 HP 115v____82.17____63985
1/2 HP 115v____100.82____63987

Condenser motors

1/6 HP 220v enclosed____75.22____FSE1016SVI
1/4 HP 220v enclosed____75.15____FSE1026SVI
1/3 HP 220v enclosed____82.17____FSE1036SVI
1/2 HP 220v enclosed____100.82____FE1056SB

Specialty motors

ORM5458 Rheem multi amp___81.50
____98____125.67
___463___104.90
___510___41.85
___509___43.90___
EM550___22.00__

Brackets

A60055__18.95
KIT 200__14.07
A67804K_15.85
TFM-55__18.95
A67805K_13.27
A60007K_12.90

Friday, January 20, 2006

 

TYPICAL DRYER PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

"Typical dryer problems and solutions"

REMEMBER THIS: WHEN MESSING WITH DRYER PLEASE UNPLUG IT!

top ten problems:

1) Dead:
If a dryer is not working at all thats not good!But it doesn't mean you need to go appliance shopping just yet.It may be something very simple like a bad door switch or even a broken door switch actuator,in a kenmore dryer there is a tab thats sticks out of a hole in the wall that allows the dryer to run only if the door is shut, other models may have button that protrudes out of the dryer and when the door is shut, this allows the dryer to run. These switches go out from time to time,also if a dryer is full of lint build-up over time this will cause the dryer high limit or fuse to blow. the fuse is located near where the blower is in most cases. When the air in the dryer gets way too hot the fuse/hi-limit will blow and the house wont burn down.

2) Runs but drum dont turn:
Usually this means the belt is broken,the belt may have just been old and worn out and it was time to replace it,or perhaps the wheels locked up or the idler and caused the belt to break. Look around for stiff wheels, bad bearings, glides and idlers. Its a good idea to oil the rollers with some temp resistant oil such as zoom oil. Dont use WD40 as this stuff is highly flamible and may cause a fire.

3) Runs but dont heat:
Ok maybe the heating element got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost.But it may not be the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poormans meter. You can make your own poormans meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight ,thats right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lites up you have a circuit! You now have a poormans meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the little black thingies attached to the side of the heat element ,the door switch (when door is closed) ETC.should have continuity(closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poormans meter) If you come across any little thingie near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, well that a sensor, a sentry ,(Now so as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thingie you check) where was I? oh yeah.It safe guards you from having to call 911. These things blow because of lint and too many clothes or blocked vent going out the house or all of the above.

4) Runs but takes a long time to dry the clothes:
Sometimes blower wheels will get loose in dryers. Sometimes they will get a whole lump of lint in them . Sometimes you can hear a rattling noise in the dryer, this is the blower wheel,its worn out and it can cause the fuse to blow too,or it can half ass work and take fifty forevers to dry the clothes.Or it could be just that the dryer needs a good blowing out .I use a lawn blower to get all the lint out of the dryer as well as the vent pipe and vent to outside. I take the filter HOUSING out and wash it also. That is, I remove the housing and clean is good! Making sure that the dryer is properly flowing air is a good thing!

5) Squeals,Scrubs,Squeeks:
All dryers have to have a way of allowing the tumbler(thats the thang you put the clothes in) to turn freely, not all of them are the same tho,some use bearings, some use slides,others use rollers. Over time these rollers will need to be oiled,the slides will get thin and start metal to metal contact causing a noise, The rear bearings will then start to make their way to china and cause the tumbler to rub into the heating element and OUCH! These things will cause the motor to prematurely DIE! Its best to examine the dryers, rollers, and slides when you first hear the noise, but who does?

6) Runs and never stops:
In all probability this may well be the timer motor has quit,and thus the timer needs replacing right? Maybe, but you need to first check to see if your dryer has a moister sensing system, If the sensor board contacts get corroded or goes caput, then the dryer wont know when to advance and shut off in newer models!

7) Runs for a few minutes then quits:
This is probably the motor going bad. The sensors wont cause this to happen. The start switch either, replacing all the sensors in the world wont make the motor be good again. But their is something you can do to try and make the motor last a while longer,their isn't any holes to oil the dryer motor so you must make some,using a 1/8th inch drill bit make a hole in either end of the motor where the bearings are(taking care not to hit the shaft) ,then add some hi temp oil such as zoom-oil,(dont use WD-40) and work the motor free as you can by hand . If this frees up the motor it may go a while longer. Also oil the rollers and check the slides to make sure they are not pinching and stalling the motor. If the motor can't reach top speed it will get hot,overload and stop.

8) Runs only if you hold the button down:
this is the motor trying to get up to top speed but it cant for some reason do it (see above). Some folks try and trick the dryer into staying on by lodging something in between the switch and letting it dry,but the sad reality is the motor is probably shot and needs to be replaced. The switch itself is not the fault, all it does is start the motor up and then the secondary windings in it take over, if the motor is dragging it will not switch over to the run mode, it soon will die anyway.

9) Runs but KEEPS blowing fuse:
Almost all the time this is because of a heavy lint problem some where in the housing of the lint trap. Keeping the lint filter housing clean will stop the fuses from blowing.THIS MEAN REMOVING THE HOUSING AND WASHING IT OUT THROUGHLY!

10) Runs beautiful at repair shop, dead at home:
This an electrical problem usualy caused by a bad breaker or a bad receptacle where the cord is plugged in,In fact bad breakers can cause you to have S fits trying to figure out why the dryer wont work. If the dryer breaker is over 20 years old it may need replacing.

Well thats all the smart pills I have for now, least untill I can ramble on some more , Hope this helps, Love Yall Mean It!

 

EVERYDAY SPECIALS

285753 coupling $10___80040 dogs $4___
341241 Belt $10___
3392519 fuse $10___279769 limit wp $23___
95405 belt wp $10___
3364290 knob wp $12___4318047 valve single $30___
4318046 valve double $40___
HS 410 start kit $20___HS 650 start kit $20___
312959 belt $10
53-0106 $18___304970 Igniter $20___
LA-1053 $20___211124-25k $20___
21001733 $30___5303937139 $24___
5300622032 $18.50___
5303281154 $12___5303281153 rear bearing $24___
IGN5 $48 _RGB2 $55.50___
WE12X82 belt__$10___WE12X49__$10___
WE3X75 bearing $5___
WE3X87 glide___$7___WH1x1944$7.50___
CC808_$25___
Heat-cool tstat_$22___univim98_$100.00___
IM6$100.00___
5500-200$30___5500-202$30___
RR110-$6.60___EM999_$20___
5109 $23___
dryer vent pipe$1.50 per foot, alum

Thursday, January 19, 2006

 

ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROL TIPS

The following procedure will initiate the defrost cycle on Inglis/Whirlpool refrigerators with adaptive defrost control DTT
1. Unplug refrigerator
2. Turn Cold Control to “off (Compressor is off)
3. Plug in refrigerator
The defrost cycle has now been initiated. The DTT has a bypass/test point for diagnosis. To terminate defrost manually:
1. Unplug the refrigerator
2. Turn the cold control “on” (Compressor is on)
3. Plug in the refrigerator
The defrost cycle is terminated and refrigeration cycle resumes.
Maytag requires a jumper between L1 & Test on the adaptive board, when the cold control is closed. This changed in all the 2003 Maytag models where the cold control has to be cycled on & off three times in less than six seconds, and left in the on position - eliminating the jumper procedure. G.E. Arctica usually requires a jumper between J4 and J9 on the main control board. The jumper must be left in place for defrost diagnosis. Knowing the method to "force defrost" and using a clamp-on ammeter for diagnosis eliminates the time-consuming emptying of the freezer, evaporator cover, and testing the heater, defrost thermostat, and in some cases the NTC thermistor with an ohmmeter.
Frigidaire (01/18/02 all mechanical defrost timers eliminated from their SxSides). To force a defrost the light switch must be toggled
Frigidaire A.D.C (Automatic Defrost Control) – AdaptiveTo initiate defrost cycle toggle Fresh Food light switch - 5 times in 6 sec.
- To cancel defrost cycle toggle F/Food light switch - 5 times in 6 sec.
- After defrost cycle test cancellation, compressor runs immediately, 1 min. delay for evaporator fan.
- After regular (non "forced") defrost – 6 min. delay for compressor
- 7 min. delay for evaporator fan
- Vacation mode: if heaters on for less than 6 min. or F/Food door not opened for 24 hrs -------- then 72 hr. defrost timing interval is set up. When door later opened, defrost reverts to previous pattern.
- Two different boards (not interchangeable). Top mount board may be subbed temporarily to a standard defrost timer ------- SxSide cannot be subbed (evaporator fan is controlled by A.D.C.)

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